Mission:Building lightest 9'rod using Calstar GF900H Blank

[Kingofthesea]

Good for you blue. That's a stick you can be proud of and I want to be the first to congratulate you. But I'm always going to be waiting for the pics of that fish that will really close the thread. You know the one.....win, lose or draw.

[STRIZ]

Well now you got it done

Question
1. Why the recess after the reelseat? Makes the foregrip obsolete IMO

2. Thread all the way to the second guide after the reelseat?

3. Tip section from the top wrapped between 2nd and third fourth and fifth guide? Why so much? Not sure if that will not change the action somewhat or make it to stiff where it should not be. Breakage before or after possibly a future event - Lets see how it hold up.


You did some experimenting as I followed the build. Will be interesting to see what the rod does and how it holds up with the components not just the first trip around. I really think those wraps on the top of the rod except for the tip itself could and I say COULD be a probelem if the other end of the line gets some big tug. You also tend to highstick so I see a Cal blank possibly.......... ouch

[gruntking]

ive stayed away from this thread for the most of it

but i really want to see this rod i cant tell if you bilt this as a joke or what

[kblue]

See my comment, STRIZ

Question
1. Why the recess after the reelseat? Makes the foregrip obsolete IMO
This revision was made after I put rear grip and reelseat. I put the reel and tried fitting.
Blank was think enough and my left hand comfortably hold this shrink tube.
I added cork tape pieces between reelseat and foregrip and ( between reel seat and rearrigp)
And then I add shrink tube. Cork tape pieces creates in and out shape under shrink tube.
Then the purpose of eva forearm would be when I put the rod over the rail.

2. Thread all the way to the second guide after the reelseat?
It is all the way. small one inch thread with one inch gap. It was just decoration.
Those thread has one layer of coat while guide thread has two layers of coats and multiple layers of thread.

3. Tip section from the top wrapped between 2nd and third fourth and fifth guide? Why so much? Not sure if that will not change the action somewhat or make it to stiff where it should not be. Breakage before or after possibly a future event - Lets see how it hold up.
I agree this is not a good idea. I wrapped there and applied one layer of epoxy hoping I can see the green highlight color at dark. I realize it will somewhat limits the rod bending contour... Is there way to remove it?


You did some experimenting as I followed the build. Will be interesting to see what the rod does and how it holds up with the components not just the first trip around. I really think those wraps on the top of the rod except for the tip itself could and I say COULD be a probelem if the other end of the line gets some big tug. You also tend to highstick so I see a Cal blank possibly.......... ouch

[kblue]

ive stayed away from this thread for the most of it

but i really want to see this rod i cant tell if you bilt this as a joke or what

Let me know when and where you want to see it...

[Rare]

I think you should do it acid style.....

[kblue]

STRIZ

I tried to high stick to see rod bending parabolic contour.
It seems middle section gets more bending curve while top section (tip and first 3 guides) becomes a little straight...
(This may be because top section bending was already affected by excessive threading. But top section is very flexible compare to middle section)
In my humble opinion, I may be ok with top threading as their bending seem become somewhat straight with big fish?
Please let me know your thought...


Threadings done like this..
tip, thread, 1st gd, no thread, 2nd gd, thread, 3rd gd, no thread, 4th gd, thread, 5th gd, then no thread all the way.
Guide thread has two coat. Just thread has one coat.

rod bending.JPG

[STRIZ]

OK so it was just deco thats fine

Thr other stuff by the tip I would remove. When a big fish is on it is different that you testing cuz the fish is for darn sure not testing it does not give a rats@ss bout bending just wants to get away.
Honestly I would remove that. Let the finish sit for another day or 2 and then cut with exacto knofe careful just the finisch. Usually you can then just peel it off.

For the foregrip I would have rather joined 2 pieces of eva if you could not get it in the length you need and then just sand down the part that you want slimmer dia.

I undestand your thought tho. Just do not rail on that slimmer piece of blank evebn with cork under.

Fish it and see what happens. You do have a very good blank that will counter errors in the build somewhat. You did a lot of things way different than anyone I know but hey honestly I do not see that much of a problem for it to work out.

Jusrt remove the tip section threading except for the one right at the tip. Prowrap also has a glow in the dark thread you could have used for that 2 inch at the tip.

[STRIZ]

I think you should do it acid style.....

Hey dont you have a couple sticks to build?
Give him a try I think you would be exited with the outcome....

[kblue]

I think you should do it acid style.....

Hey dont you have a couple sticks to build?
Give him a try I think you would be exited with the outcome....

Just give it to me...I will f@ck it up more nicely than this...

[kblue]

Jusrt remove the tip section threading except for the one right at the tip. Prowrap also has a glow in the dark thread you could have used for that 2 inch at the tip.

Thank You Master.

Will do!!!

[permitchaser]

i have a question ,were you able to aling the reel seat with the spine of the blank ?I hope you did if you didn't when you hook a fish you will know why.... also thank God you back off from marble smart move how bout bubbles on the epoxy ? did it cure ok? I got to say you are brave after all look at the bright side you have learn a lot ,and its not as easy as it looks eh????

I love how you got an explanation for all d questions

[Rare]

Hey dont you have a couple sticks to build?
Give him a try I think you would be exited with the outcome....

Yes and a hell no to your question. My rod builder left the USA... something about hw was on a mission to find himself....whatever the hell that meant.

Before I get the rods on the way..I need the 180g or 220g aquarium project started. That 135g is getting way too small. The width is 18 inch only. The other one will give me a 24in width more room to work with and 72in in length. Total is 72Lx 24W x 24 H

[kblue]

Hey dont you have a couple sticks to build?
Give him a try I think you would be exited with the outcome....

Yes and a hell no to your question. My rod builder left the USA... something about hw was on a mission to find himself....whatever the hell that meant.

Before I get the rods on the way..I need the 180g or 220g aquarium project started. That 135g is getting way too small. The width is 18 inch only. The other one will give me a 24in width more room to work with and 72in in length. Total is 72Lx 24W x 24 H

What the heck is 180g and 220g Aquarium?

[LINESIDER]

180-220 gallons.. lol i could get u a custom tank built. along with a rod to match..

send me a pm

[kblue]

i have a question ,were you able to aling the reel seat with the spine of the blank ?I hope you did if you didn't when you hook a fish you will know why.... also thank God you back off from marble smart move how bout bubbles on the epoxy ? did it cure ok? I got to say you are brave after all look at the bright side you have learn a lot ,and its not as easy as it looks eh????

I love how you got an explanation for all d questions

I hope I did correctly align the reel seat with blank spine.
I follow this instruction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjtQWeFj4co
Finding blank spine was easier than I thought. But I got confused because the guy bent the blank opposite way and then location of guide for spinning and conventional are opposite. I spent a couple of hours to digest this completely. I think I sorted this out.

Yes, marbling seems too much of one-way ticket. I decided not to engage it.

When I mixed epoxy first time, it becomes and stays cloudy so I threw away. I figure I didn't put equal amount.
Also, I didn't like plastic mixing cup. I realized aluminum cup is better. I put equal amount and mix it and then it became clear with some bubbles.
And then, I applied epoxy on thread. I notice lots of bubble on some spot. I applied gas lighter and then epoxy became watery and most bubbles came out.
I think there may be some small bubbles but they are only visible with magnifier...
And I am sure there may be more issues with the rod...

Yes, It wasn't as easy as it looks. There have been so many hiccups and operational errors.
I spent more than 50 hours on this. But those time went so fast.
Now, I have to remove those top threads per STRIZ instruction.

I learned a lot and better understand now all those concerns and advice from STRIZ, Raul, Lineslider, and others.
When I don't know, I don't even know what I don't know. And when I know, I just know. There is no in between.

[permitchaser]

Its ok Jongsoo we all have make mistakes building rods and from your mistakes it's how you become good and better .You have taken our advices like a man .All you got to do is heat up all that thread with a torch a Little bit don't over do it and it will come right off. and re do it the right way.Ah used a new blade be careful not to scratch d blank....hope this helps

[kblue]

I was able to remove two thread as recommended by STRIZ.
The part of blank that thread was removed looks dull. How can I "polish" it?

Thread removal.JPG

Thread removal 2.JPG

[permitchaser]

did you clean it with laquer thiner or acetone or diu alcohol like I told you????

[permitchaser]

if that don't work lmk there is plan B

[kblue]

did you clean it with laquer thiner or acetone or diu alcohol like I told you????

Oh, I remember you told me that over PM...I am on my way to Homedepot to get a laquer thiner...lol

[permitchaser]

you should b ok after you do that ,just in case buy a can of black paint krylon if posible and the very thin sand paper the black one.unless u try laquer thiner first n don't buy the other stuff.

[kblue]

Lacquer thinner works in my test... But I realized I had to wait for my third coat to be completely dry

[LINESIDER]

if u pur rod finish over that area,it would hide that dullness

[kblue]

I get removal and polish done... made small scratch...
Rod delivered to customer, who is happy and tells no problem about scratch.
Customer promised to post some pictures of fish caught by the rod

IMG_0230.JPG

It is all done now... Shop closed until further notice.

Here is total summary

Blank : $136
Direct Material cost : $162 (not including tool, etc)
Tax :17.88
Total direct cost: 315.88

Tool cost = $192 (Capital investment)

Labor hour = 60 hours.
$5 / hour charge = 5 x 60 = $300

Total price of rod ( Direct cost + labor) : 615.88

Price of having Fun for 60 hours and gaining experience = $1000

Profit Margin = $384.12 = $1000 - $615.88

[Rare]

Rod value= $1.00

[gruntking]

na i would give him 50 just for the blank

[permitchaser]

are those guides allingn ????

[Rare]

are those guides allingn ????

I think he went for the acid style minus function?

[permitchaser]

are those guides allingn ????

I think he went for the acid style minus function?