BASIC BOTTOM RIGS

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njp32
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BASIC BOTTOM RIGS

Post by njp32 »

Well a few people asked me to post some here so here you go:

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edit: heres how to tie the dropper loops to make the chicken rig
http://www.animatedknots.com/dropperloo ... dknots.com

Hope this helps,
NJP32
Last edited by njp32 on Sun Jul 13, 2008 3:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.

jighead
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Post by jighead »

Thanks,good job. :thumright:

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Post by WolfNp »

Very cool indeed. Thanks alot for the clear and concise info

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Post by BoatlessFisherman »

Those are really great, Thanks
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Post by fishinDave07 »

niiice :toast:
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Post by PBFisher »

Nice. In the first diagram, what function does the bead serve?

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Post by PBFisher »

Rijkaard wrote: anyway, if you switch hook and sinker in the first scheme you get a trolley rig 8)
AHA! Now I see where the name comes from. Thanks Rijkaard.

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Post by thatjohnkid »

When I was at the pier yesterday a older feller told me that I'd probably do better if I was using a pyramid weight instead of the egg sinkers I have been using. He said my bait wouldn't drift as much. Any one have a diagram for that setup for that I could just modify to use. I'm not sure how I would got about using a pyramid weight, never used one and the ones I've seen people using have these plastic pieces on them. What are those?

Thanks guys

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Post by BigEarl »

john I use the basic chicken rig ( pompano rigs ) just snap on your weight and go fishing!!!!
Everyone should believe in something. I believe I'll go fishing!

2010 fish
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njp32
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Post by njp32 »

thatjohnkid wrote:When I was at the pier yesterday a older feller told me that I'd probably do better if I was using a pyramid weight instead of the egg sinkers I have been using. He said my bait wouldn't drift as much. Any one have a diagram for that setup for that I could just modify to use. I'm not sure how I would got about using a pyramid weight, never used one and the ones I've seen people using have these plastic pieces on them. What are those?

Thanks guys
those diagrams are just guidelines.you can slightly modify them to your preference(make the leader slightly longer or shorter,change the type of weight, hook) and it will still work.i recommend you use the "typical bottom rig" and just replace the bank sinker with the pyramid sinker if ur having problems with drifting and crossing peoples lines. Many like to use bank sinkers cause they hold pretty good and they dont snag as much in rocky places.

those plastic things are called sinker slides and they dont come with the weight.It comes with a snap to attach your sinker and you feed the line through the little hole and tie on a swivel.you attach your leader to the other side of the swivel.It basically takes the place of the egg sinker in the "fishfinder rig", and the sliding weight assembly in the "typical bottom rig". you can buy them at any tackle shop. ive seen them in walmart and kmart too.

you can use any of those rigs and they all work cause they all follow the same basic principle.

hope this helps,
NJP32

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thatjohnkid
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Post by thatjohnkid »

Thanks NJP,

I'm going to tie up some leaders over the weekend, cause fishing isn't looking promising :(

MrStitch

Post by MrStitch »

Egg sinkers on all of 'em. Good choice, however, does anyone here use bottom bouncers and float rigs instead?

LennyLacey

Bottom Rig

Post by LennyLacey »

The Weight to should be free on the line, not tied, but slip on it?

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njp32
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Re: Bottom Rig

Post by njp32 »

LennyLacey wrote:The Weight to should be free on the line, not tied, but slip on it?
yes because when a fish takes your bait the line slips through the sinker which increases the chances of it eating your bait because it wont feel any resistance. also, since the line isnt directly tied to the sinker you get alot more sensitivity which helps you detect more subtle bites.

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Post by fldoowop »

Dear NJP32,
Another fisherman wanna-be says thank you for the diagrams.
I see others fishing with all those pieces and was not sure how to do it myself.
Now maybe I can catch some fish :shock:
Someday I'll catch the big one.

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Post by L8RBRA »

Thanks for the write up. It has confirmed my old style fishing from down in New Orleans. 8) :D
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Post by cybereagle »

Hey remenber the old saying a picture is worth ore than 1,000 words.
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Post by jsong »

Thanks for the diagrams!

This may be a stupid question... but ...

Does it matter to use interlocking swivels? i use regular ones, but whats the point of interlocking ones? Ive seen a friend directly put a hoook onto an interlocking swivel, but I didnt like that idea, especially for bottom rig.

I can see a point if you clip on another swivel with pre-made rigs/diff weights, but then do you lock another swivel to it? ... i think i wasted my dollar on these... :?

And does the bead have any purpose? besides lookin perty..???
also, how many lb leader would u recommend for Grouper fishing in Gulf?

Thanks,
John

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Post by bolo »

jsong wrote:Thanks for the diagrams!

This may be a stupid question... but ...

Does it matter to use interlocking swivels? i use regular ones, but whats the point of interlocking ones? Ive seen a friend directly put a hoook onto an interlocking swivel, but I didnt like that idea, especially for bottom rig.

I can see a point if you clip on another swivel with pre-made rigs/diff weights, but then do you lock another swivel to it? ... i think i wasted my dollar on these... :?

And does the bead have any purpose? besides lookin perty..???
also, how many lb leader would u recommend for Grouper fishing in Gulf?

Thanks,
John
Some people feel its easier to change hooks or give better action. If you do use them make sure you match the correct snap swivel to your mono rig. I recommend snelling or improved chinched knot to your hook.

The beads are there to protect your knots from your sliding swivel or sinker.

I was taught minumin of 80lbs leader for grouper but I use 100lb at the dry tortugas. Everyone has different opinion on how thick of leader to use. Use this as a guide and use what you are comfortable.

I hope this helps. Others will chime in.

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Post by snakehead terror »

so what if you are fishing for both mutton and grouper? 50 lb leader?
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Post by firebeforice »

thanks dude

this is why I come to this thread

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Post by jsong »

hrmm maybe thats why my line always snaps with only 40 lb leader... =T

what kinda hook do you use, so they dont spit it out..??

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Post by bolo »

snapperkiller wrote:so what if you are fishing for both mutton and grouper? 50 lb leader?
You can use 50lb, you just take that chance of the leader getting frayed up or wore thru on a big grouper. Mutton will be fine on lighter leaders. His post stated he was fishing for Grouper only. That is why I recommend the thicker leader.

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njp32
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Post by njp32 »

jsong wrote:Thanks for the diagrams!

This may be a stupid question... but ...

Does it matter to use interlocking swivels? i use regular ones, but whats the point of interlocking ones? Ive seen a friend directly put a hoook onto an interlocking swivel, but I didnt like that idea, especially for bottom rig.

I can see a point if you clip on another swivel with pre-made rigs/diff weights, but then do you lock another swivel to it? ... i think i wasted my dollar on these... :?

And does the bead have any purpose? besides lookin perty..???
also, how many lb leader would u recommend for Grouper fishing in Gulf?

Thanks,
John
i personally don't like to use lock snaps to attach leaders and hooks i just tie them on straight to the leader. the reason is that i believe that the less hardware you have on your rig, the better your chances of getting bites. i try to keep the terminal tackle to a minimum on all my rigs.

if im freelining, i tie leader to mainline with an albright knot, no swivels or snaps the only thing on it is a hook .
if im tying a bottom rig i loop or tie on the sinker depending on what type it is, no lock snaps or sinker slides here either i only use whats absolutely necessary. two swivels, one bead and a hook. the bead keeps your rig from tangling up b/c problems start to arise when those swivels are touching.
also the terminal tackle that i do use is the smallest possible that can get the job done.
they used to have these offshore swivels that were super strong and very tiny but they were 5 bucks and came only 8 in a pack. now tsunami is making the same type of swivels but they're pretty cheap 2.79 for 30 in a pack and they are very strong. they are a perfect fit for my rigs.

don't waste your money on premade rigs or those plastic coated wire ones.(we've all been there lol). i dont like to use wire on rigs unless fishing for macks or blues when they're thick and even then i use very light single stand wire and tie it straight on to the leader. buy yourself an ande monofilament leader spool, some regular swivels, and some hooks and tie your own rigs.
about the beads, i personally think its a ripoff to buy those "fishing beads" i find that if i go to the arts and crafts section i can get beads that work just as good and get about 500 for 1.99. thats what i call a deal :wink:

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Post by theprofessor2009 »

For the fish finder rig is there any way to stop the egg sinker from moving up and down the line? Thanks.

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Post by PhishingPhanatic »

Thats kind of the point of a fishfinder rig, to let your weight sit on the bottom and the line moves up and down with the current.

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Post by MoJo »

theprofessor2009 wrote:For the fish finder rig is there any way to stop the egg sinker from moving up and down the line? Thanks.
You could loop the line thru the egg sinker twice.

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Re: BASIC BOTTOM RIGS

Post by njp32 »

edited with new pics

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Re: BASIC BOTTOM RIGS

Post by fishnfool73 »

To keep your sinker in one basic spot on your line try this......main line bead tie to swivel with a ft or so of your main line...add egg sinker then tie another swivel on....tie on your leader. I have seen it used on the West Coast of Florida on the overnight boats. This works best when there is little current when fishing for grouper or aj's with live baits.
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Re: BASIC BOTTOM RIGS

Post by Green Tide »

FF
That sounds like a semi knocker rig, which is what I use alot bc there is limited slip depending on the length of your sinker leader. You can always pull the slack out of that section w/o moving the lead. So the bait moves on the 3ft leader from the hook and then another 1ft of play on your sinker.
Another thing I like about it is when your bait is decending your sinker can only separate from your bait by the sinker leader length. Instead of your sinker falling too fast and end up on the bottom while your bait is 15ft up in the column when you think you are on bottom
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