I've recently ditched the swivel and started tying line to line knots such as the uni to uni and the blood knot. I'm fishing a Penn Battle 4000 with 20lb Power Pro Braid on a 7ft Ande Tournement Inshore rod. I'm using a 40lb mono leader and 30lb fluro depending on cover. I've read some reviews that the braid will cut the mono/fluro, and after losing several good sized fish last night it seems this might be the case. Has anyone else had these problems with thie light of braid? Should I go back to swivels?

I've also started snelling hooks rather than using a clinch knot, seems like I get more hook ups this way. Any feed back is great.

Cheers - Ralphie

Yes the light braid will cut the mono on a big fish and a tight drag. For light braid I like an albright know or a bob sands knot.

i know guys that use 20lb braid with 40lb mono/fluro leader all day long and never have
braid cutting the leader..

(and yes they are catching big fish) but in saying that i also know people that when
they first switch to line to line knot were getting all kinds of line failures...
The reason> they werent tying the knots right for one reason or another they kept messing
something up, anyway i had them start out slow and to stick with "ONE" knot till they got
it right...

start out with the uni to uni give yourselve some extra wraps and "Slowly" tighten it and
wet it..then test it!!! force the knot to fail...
and if it fail right away then you know, you need to see what you are doing wrong..
We all have gone thru this when starting out with a new knot.... I would also work on the
improved albright knot... it takes a little longer to get it down...some knots take a little time

I will admit, I'd just down graded to 20lb from 30lb to get more loaded on my spool and last night was the first big hook up I'd had since then. I thumbed the spool instead of just tightening the drag down. Meh, lesson learned. Think they were a big rays any how.

Thanks guys, I'm going to try switching to an Albright. I know how to tie them all from previous work as an Arborist in the North East. I'll post worthwhile catches here as a thanks.

Cheers - Ralphie

spider hitch (or bimini) to double the braid and then tie an albright with the double braid around the heavier mono, lock both braid and mono with closing knots and you're setup!

I like the Albright and have had a lot of luck with it. To reiterate what Jetty said: whatever knot you pick, if it's not tied real pretty just like the picture, it will probably fail. Flouro seems to be especially sensitive to an improperly tied knot.

15 turn spider hitch on the braid, then Yucatan or reverse all right to the leader using the double line.

I used to use uni to uni all the time, but after a friend showed me this knot, it is definitely my go to. 20 lb braid is pretty tough anyhow, it usually won't cut your leader... Least not as much as 10 lb

Spool some 10 lb braid on that 4000 and you will see a big improvement in casting and more line cap

I use 3000 & 4000 series spinning reels on 7' rods with a reel that is rated fro 15" drag. Spooled with 10# on the 3000 and 20# on the 4000, and use difffernet size flure and mono leaders depending on the target species up to 40#, but more likely 15# or 20# fluro, I liek to go as lite as needed for the fish targetd, only go up to 20+ if specifically targeting big Snook.

I always tie a Uni to Uni, and have never had an issue with a cut knot or lost fish from knot failure. There have been several studies/articles on knot failure and there is a ighe failure when using more turns on the braid side, I use 7 or 8 turns on the braid and 4 to 6 on the mono/fluro. I do sometimes double up the braid with a bimini-twist about 4 to 6' long, same thing 7 or 8 turn Bimini.

I dont know what you guys are catching thats running that much, but DAMN!!!!...

I have the same setup 7ft M/H action rod with 4000 size reel (spheros/Stradic) both
loaded fully with 30lb JB braid
and i fish off jetty/piers and shoreline and have yet had a snook/bullred take off with
all my line.. i been scared on long run by a bullred but was still able to turn and get line
back on reel and as far as casting distance goes, i really don't see the need to cast a
mile with a 7ft 4000 rod/reel setup..

If tarpons show up or i need to cast a mile then i just switch to a bigger setup...
Use the right gear for the job needed, i really don't get into the ultra light deal
I rather bring in a fish with a little fight left in her so she can swim away then to have
to deal with nice dead fish that slowly swims away....
just saying

From shore I only use mono unless going for macks or goggle eyes I do use 10lb braid to cast my tiny artificial lures (you can cast much better and the line last a couple of years). From the boats I use braid over 40lb test. I have never had a problem but have seeing many get the mono cut off from the braid and it usually is because of what I said above "big fish and a tight drag", people cuping the spools and so on. With a tight drag even your mono knots will cut the mono. Sometimes it happens when the drag slips and freezes. Happens shark fishing, grouper fishing, amber jack fishing, etc... only seeing it a few times but it happens.

One more thing is mono does have a shelf life. When you buy it on sale it's because it's shelf life is about to expire. It becomes harder or brittle as time passes by and it's not in use. Have you ever tied a knot and the knot broke while you were tightening it? That may mean that you have bad old mono, even if you just bought it.

As promised here's a prized fighter I brought in using a spider hitch on the 20lb braid tied into and Albright on the 30lb mono. This is one of about 12 yesterday evening. Thanks guys!

Cheers - Ralphie