Boatless Fishing Forum, Reports, Info

I've recently ditched the swivel and started tying line to line knots such as the uni to uni and the blood knot. I'm fishing a Penn Battle 4000 with 20lb Power Pro Braid on a 7ft Ande Tournement Inshore rod. I'm using a 40lb mono leader and 30lb fluro depending on cover. I've read some reviews that the braid will cut the mono/fluro, and after losing several good sized fish last night it seems this might be the case. Has anyone else had these problems with thie light of braid? Should I go back to swivels?

I've also started snelling hooks rather than using a clinch knot, seems like I get more hook ups this way. Any feed back is great.

Cheers - Ralphie

Yes the light braid will cut the mono on a big fish and a tight drag. For light braid I like an albright know or a bob sands knot.

I will admit, I'd just down graded to 20lb from 30lb to get more loaded on my spool and last night was the first big hook up I'd had since then. I thumbed the spool instead of just tightening the drag down. Meh, lesson learned. Think they were a big rays any how.

Thanks guys, I'm going to try switching to an Albright. I know how to tie them all from previous work as an Arborist in the North East. I'll post worthwhile catches here as a thanks.

Cheers - Ralphie

I like the Albright and have had a lot of luck with it. To reiterate what Jetty said: whatever knot you pick, if it's not tied real pretty just like the picture, it will probably fail. Flouro seems to be especially sensitive to an improperly tied knot.

15 turn spider hitch on the braid, then Yucatan or reverse all right to the leader using the double line.

I used to use uni to uni all the time, but after a friend showed me this knot, it is definitely my go to. 20 lb braid is pretty tough anyhow, it usually won't cut your leader... Least not as much as 10 lb

Spool some 10 lb braid on that 4000 and you will see a big improvement in casting and more line cap

I use 3000 & 4000 series spinning reels on 7' rods with a reel that is rated fro 15" drag. Spooled with 10# on the 3000 and 20# on the 4000, and use difffernet size flure and mono leaders depending on the target species up to 40#, but more likely 15# or 20# fluro, I liek to go as lite as needed for the fish targetd, only go up to 20+ if specifically targeting big Snook.

I always tie a Uni to Uni, and have never had an issue with a cut knot or lost fish from knot failure. There have been several studies/articles on knot failure and there is a ighe failure when using more turns on the braid side, I use 7 or 8 turns on the braid and 4 to 6 on the mono/fluro. I do sometimes double up the braid with a bimini-twist about 4 to 6' long, same thing 7 or 8 turn Bimini.

From shore I only use mono unless going for macks or goggle eyes I do use 10lb braid to cast my tiny artificial lures (you can cast much better and the line last a couple of years). From the boats I use braid over 40lb test. I have never had a problem but have seeing many get the mono cut off from the braid and it usually is because of what I said above "big fish and a tight drag", people cuping the spools and so on. With a tight drag even your mono knots will cut the mono. Sometimes it happens when the drag slips and freezes. Happens shark fishing, grouper fishing, amber jack fishing, etc... only seeing it a few times but it happens.

One more thing is mono does have a shelf life. When you buy it on sale it's because it's shelf life is about to expire. It becomes harder or brittle as time passes by and it's not in use. Have you ever tied a knot and the knot broke while you were tightening it? That may mean that you have bad old mono, even if you just bought it.

As promised here's a prized fighter I brought in using a spider hitch on the 20lb braid tied into and Albright on the 30lb mono. This is one of about 12 yesterday evening. Thanks guys!

Cheers - Ralphie